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Cured Meat, Smoked Fish & Pickled Eggs: Recipes & Techniques for Preserving Protein-Packed Foods, by Karen Solomon
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Review
“Karen Solomon’s latest book is not one you need for putting up batches of bread and butter pickles, peach preserves or tomato sauce. The author, an expert on pickling and preserving, addresses how to add new flavor and shelf life to ingredients that know no season: meats, poultry, fish, eggs, dairy, nuts and beans. I liked the variations she suggests, and cross-references she gives when it comes to methods. She offers details like timing, yields, storage and uses. Her recipe for rousong (a.k.a. pork floss) — a fluffy kind of pork topping like fried pulled pork — is a keeper.” — Florence Fabricant, New York Times “This deep dive into the world of food preservation is a call to infuse joy and new flavors into age-old techniques.” ― Jeffrey Yoskowitz, co-author of The Gefilte Manifesto: New Recipes for Old World Jewish Foods “Karen Solomon's wonderfully inventive recipes carry us across several continents as we learn how cooks worldwide have devised delicious ways to turn necessity into desire. I can’t wait to dig in!” ― Darra Goldstein, founding editor of Gastronomica and author of Fire+Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking “This is certain to become THE handbook for anyone who wants to start making their own jerkies, confits, and pickled proteins.” ― Marisa McClellan, creator of Food in Jars
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From the Back Cover
Turn Your Kitchen Counter into a Deli Counter On the menu: bold flavors that deliver nutrition and protein. From corned beef and pork rinds to duck prosciutto and brined cheese, discover how easy it is to smoke, pickle, cure, can, and dehydrate your favorite meats, fish, beans, and more. Includes recipes for everyday classics like bacon, beef jerky, chicken stock, and more!
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Product details
Paperback: 200 pages
Publisher: Storey Publishing, LLC (July 10, 2018)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 161212903X
ISBN-13: 978-1612129037
Product Dimensions:
7 x 0.8 x 9 inches
Shipping Weight: 1.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.0 out of 5 stars
3 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#154,495 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
I don't know how one person can know so much, know it well, and be able to present it in a way that a beginner can easily follow directions and have instant success! I have all of her books and this one is as good as the rest. Karen, you rock!!!
So that I don't discourage novice cooks looking to learn the basics of preserving, I decided to rate this book four stars, instead of an average three-star rating. But this book does not contain the creative recipes I was hoping for. And thinking hard about it, I think the basic information and basic recipes may be too little for the novice. It's definitely too basic for those with more experience. I’m not sure what experience level this book is geared towards……What disappointed me was the fact that there were only single “token†recipes for most of the food types. With the exception of several beef jerky recipes and a few pickled egg recipes, there was only one recipe for bacon, one for pork belly, for example. In regards to what foods to cover in a book on "preserving", this author chose foods with a lot of protein. So you will not find vegetables.The book begins by explaining the philosophies of and rules for preserving foods. It will be helpful to understand the reasons, which will make it easier to grasp and retain the subsequent instructions and rules. Solomon is an adequate teacher and the instructions and information presented in this book are easy to understand. And what could have been dry and technical reading, comes across as fairly interesting. The reader will spend about 26 pages going through the steps of ten techniques. Then, it’s on to the recipes.Hot smoking in this book is done at 140 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. I thought I was going to be interested in the hot smoking section, but from experience, I know I cannot maintain a low enough temperature to work with the recipes in this book. In addition, the author only mentions hickory sawdust as smoke flavor (for any and all food types), and instructions are basic.Cold smoking instructions are provided, but the author does not recommend that technique for home cooks.Oven drying and dehydrating instructions are straightforward.Dry curing and wet curing is what I was most looking forward to gathering recipes and information on. But I didn't find much. Definitely not enough to make it worth my while to put this book on my library shelves. We have a butchered hog in our freezer and I wanted ideas for bacon. I found one recipe.....Regarding pickling, there is a small section each for quick/refrigerator pickled protein, hot-water bath canning and pressure canning. The only fermentation recipe is for yogurt.The chapters are divided up by food type, not preserving method. So, for instance, in the beef-lamb-game chapter the reader will find jerkies and dried meats (oven drying and dehydrator), and also corned beef and pastrami (brine curing). In the chapter on pork the reader will find brine curing (ham) and dry curing (bacon), smoking, pickling (hot dogs and NOLA pickle meat).Presenting a recipe for chicken stock, as a means of preserving, seemed a ridiculous waste of space. And a recipe for duck confit also seemed a waste, as the recipes for duck confit are prolific online. The recipe for Duck Breast Prosciutto was a worthwhile addition. There is a recipe for smoked turkey legs that calls for a very simple brine and then a smoke.In the fish chapter, since the only fish recipes in this book use salmon, tuna, cod, herring, I was surprised and disappointed to find pages on how to fillet a fish. Considering that the filleted “fish†was not broken down into different species, I found the instructions to be too basic and fairly worthless. With all the gravlax recipes to be found online, I also though the very simple recipe provided here was a waste of space. There is also a recipe for making bacalou, which is easy to find online. And a page recipe for creamed pickled herring was simply to add two cups of sour cream to herring already pickled.The fish information is more than a bit narrow-minded in that the author ignores a cook’s own fish catches. It would have been great if she had included recipes for pickling Northern Pike, for example. But she concentrates on preaching to the reader the values of sustainable ocean preservation and the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program. She resides in San Francisco, and this book does slant towards the West Coast. Don’t look for fresh water fish pickling recipes. Don’t look for smoked fresh water fish, either!I like the variety of colorful pickled eggs and the simple white cheese did not need any special ingredients and was really very simple. I’ve had fun with flavoring feta cubes using the herbed feta recipe in this book. The yogurt recipe is simple and one we’ve seen before.The beans and nuts chapter was unusual in many ways. Tofu that’s been pickled, turned into jerky, and sake-brined were interesting recipes. Cooking up dried beans and canning them seemed ridiculous to me. One token nut recipe was taking roasted, salted pistachios and mixing them with honey and ginger.There are pictures for most of the recipes, although each picture covers several recipes. So there are not all that many pictures, and they are not really exciting and interesting. Page layout is easy on the eyes.I found mistakes in the fish pickling and preserved egg yolk recipes, and hopefully they were corrected before the book went to print.*I received a temporary download of this book from the publisher.
I don't like this book very much but it is not without some value. The text, at least in the ARC that I am working from, is disjointed and contradictory and somewhat unclear in places.Ms Solomon skimps on the fermented foods section because she says that US readers don't like fermented food. What world is she living in? "The revolution will not be microwaved" was published in 2006 and, while it was not the only recent fermenting book, it can be used as a start date for updated fermenting. Check out fermented foods online and you will see many sites devoted to "live" foods which are rich in probiotics and thus favorite recommendations for gut health.Ms Solomon then devotes a chapter to brined foods, which somehow she separates from fermented foods. Cucumbers fermented in brine are not the protein foods that are the subject of this book, but by golly, brined is fermented (look up "half-done" pickles). Most people consider corned beef to be fermented, but not Ms Solomon.The book's introduction says clearly that you are responsible for your own safety and that all of the instructions in the book are safe. I would have put in some "Don't do this" along with the "Do this" for tricky techniques.Ms Solomon uses sodium nitrate in the form of Pink Cure #1 and #2 which are often called "Pink Salt". While she often adds "(sodium nitrate)" to the sentence to reinforce that this is not table salt, no where does she spell out that Himalayan Pink Salt is something else entirely. Do all novice cooks know this?As I read the text, Ms Solomon says that you really should not cold smoke meat, a sentiment echoed by many of my fave sources, but then goes on to tell you how to do it. Fortunately she always tells you to cook the cold smoked meat before eating.Stuck in here too are a few non-preserved foods too. Why?So bottom line here is that this is probably an OK reference book but I would check the recipes with other sources before testing.I received a review copy of "Cured Meat, Smoked Fish & Pickled Eggs: Recipes & Techniques for Preserving Protein-Packed Foods" by Karen Solomon (Storey) through NetGalley.com.PS There is a recipe in the book for "Yoghurt Bombs" which are dehydrated yogurt cheese. You haven't tasted anything till you have tasted "qurut" from Afghanistan. It is far too strong, salty, and smelly for me but some American and most Afghan friends, love it.
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